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 Slowly assemble the packs of two batteries into the entire pack. Keep checking against the other pack to make sure you have them aligned correctly.

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As long as the batteries are butted up against each other and the glue is on the outside of the joint, you shouldn't have a problem with the length of the pack fitting back into the case.
Make sure you take all the special connectors off the old pack and solder them in the same locations on the new one. Also, you probably want to get the orientation of these correct (solder the ends the same way they were).
I bought my cells with tabs already attached. I didn't realize they were going to be so short and both pointing in the same direction.
So on every battery I bent one back and soldered it to the tab next to it. I also removed some of the tabs for the end cells and the middle cells with the weird resistors.
Now solder the connecters for the contacts and carefully bend the batteries back inside the case. You need to make sure the metal is bending in the right place or else the contacts on the outside will come out of alignment.
This is something I didn't count on. The original batteries had the tabs spot welded in place. No matter how well I soldered the connections I was never going to get them that close to the original.
So, I cut off the end that doesn't have the contacts with a Dremel cutting wheel. It just barely fits with minimal tape over the batteries.
Success! I think the multimeter needs to be calibrated, but I know how many cells there are and how many volts each one is so I'm not worried.
After testing the battery you should probably wrap it with some electrical tape and then wrap the open end of the case with duct tape.
I ended up wrapping and rewrapping a number of times, so you might want to test fit it in your laptop to see how much space you can spare. Duct tape can build up some width quicker than you think.
 
Click the next button if you want to see how to repair a CMOS battery pack.
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